This is the filter that many dealers will say doesn't exist. If you leave it in too long it will eventually block and open the built in bypass valve. This would result in unfiltered oil flowing into the transmission. A known cooler flaw could cause TC overheating, cooler circuit oil pressure loss and transmission overheating by forcing oil through this dirty filter or bypass.
Changing the filter.* Warning you follow these directions at you own risk * This filter is fairly easy to change, the Australian Accords are very easy.
1. Drain the transmission oil and wait for the car to cool. 2. Remove the air intake filter and the lower air intake filter housing. 3. Remove the mounting bolt that holds the oil filter housing pipe to the rear of the transmission. 4. Remove the banjo bolt holding the metal oil filter pipe to the filter housing. 5. Place a rag under the front of the filter housing to catch any oil. 6. Remove the 3 bolts holding the front housing to the filter housing. 7. Thread the banjo bolt back into the end cap a few turns and pull the end cap squarely off.
Air filter housing to intake manifold coupling
ATF filler. You may find the 2nd gear oil injection mod in this location
Transmission heat exchanger
Metal pipe from the oil filter housing going to the rear of transmission
Front housing end cap
Align the marks on the filter housing and the front cover when reassembling
Note:Warning you follow these suggestions at your own risk. When draining the ATFl, leave the car level, if you jack the car up at the front you will not drain the transmission correctly.
Find the drain bolt, it is low on the front left hand side of the transmission; you want that to be at the lowest point to correctly drain the oil and contaminants from the pan. If you have the oil jet modification in the ATF filler hole you must be very careful not to damage or kink the hoses coming from the banjo fittings and the tee connection for the 2nd gear mod.
When the banjo bolt is removed you may find that the fitting will not move, this is because the metal pipe going from the fitting to the rear of the transmission is attached with another bolt which passes through a bracket welded to the metal pipe. This bolt should be removed before you remove the banjo bolt (You may not have to do this if you have the 2nd gear jet mod)
1. Make sure the alignment marks line up on the filter housing and the housing end cover. 2. Do not over tighten the 3 housing bolts. 3. Install the banjo bolt but don't tighten it yet. 4. Install the rear bolt and tighten. 5. Tighten the banjo bolt - Do not over tighten. It needs to be tightened just enough to slightly crush the washers.
If the ATF filler bolt is not occupied by a 2nd gear oil jet modification then you have the option of refilling the transmission through the ATF filler hole.
I decided not to do this because:
1. The filler bolt is very - very hard to remove. 2. I found it a pain to refill without spilling fluid with the filler plug down so low. 3. A refilling jig is used to fill through the dip stick tube and is so easy, it just takes time. Go have a hit of your favourite addiction while waiting.
Refilling: A simple drain and refill requires about 3 litres of fluid.
This is all Honda does at 120,000 and then they leave over half of the old, stuffed, dirty and contaminated oil in the transmission to completely dilute the new oil and leave that in for another 60,000. Brilliant! The stuff of dreams - Not!
If you have been changing your oil regularly then you only need to do a simple drain and refill.
If your ATF is discoloured - It should be red - or if you have not changed it for 60,000km then you should do a complete change. A complete change requires around 9 liters. This is also called a flush - Do not confuse this term with a "transmission power flush".
A power flush can sometimes be an death sentence for an older Honda transmission.
This Honda flush (3x3) is designed to remove most of the old transmission fluid from the torque convertor.
1. Drive the car until it is at operating temperature, check that the fluid level is correct - Adjust now or Adjust the refill amount in step 6 if incorrect.
2. Remove the drain plug and drain the fluid - measure how much fluid you removed.
3. Wait for the car to cool and replace the filter. Refit the transmission filter banjo fitting and pipe fittings.
4. Replace the air intake filter lower housing, air filter and air filter upper housing,
5. Fit the drain plug using the old washer and tighten - do not over tighten.
6. Replace the amount of fluid you drained with new trans fluid. - Replace with the same amount you removed or Adjust for step 1.
7. Start the car, check for leaks, take the car for a short drive and get it to change through all gears, select reverse gear as well.
8. Drain the fluid again.
9. Repeat steps 5 to 8 - then goto step 10. Make sure to measure the amount of fluid that you drain and refill.
10. Fit the drain plug using a new washer. - do not over tighten.
11. Replace the amount of fluid you drained with new trans fluid.
12. Start the car, check for leaks then take the car for a drive, get it to change through all gears, get it to operating temperature.
13. Turn the car off and check within 60 seconds for the correct transmission fluid level.
14. Add or remove fluid to bring the fluid to the correct level.
NOTE: Only measure the fluid when the car is absolutely level - Not on a slope.
The transmission fluid must be measured with the engine at operating temperature and within 60 seconds of shutting the engine down. Check your manual to confirm just in case. Never measure after a high speed run or when the engine/transmission is overly hot.
Once you know that the oil is at the correct level, you can measure it when it's cold and note the reading on the dip stick.
This allows you to check before driving that the correct amount of oil is most likely in the transmission.
Still do regular checks at operating temperature though.
Simple filter and oil change:
For a simple filter and oil change follow steps 1 to 4 and 10 to 14.